By 1st Sgt. Koepp

     This year, several of us ordered the last batch ever of Cary Davisson's Berdan cartridge boxes and with them came cartridge tins from Ulrich.  Obviously, the tins from Ulrich are superior in build quality and accuracy than import tins that most people have.  This increased accuracy opened up the possibility of experimenting with different boxes for arsenal packs.  That, and our first article and video on making arsenal packs has seemed to have sold out Michael's nationwide of the jewelry boxes we were using.  The first arsenal packs we designed, lets call them the Mark 1, were perfect for our needs because they fit all makes of cartridge tins and blanks take up much less space.  Since our original jewelry boxes appear to be hard to come by these days, the Captain ordered a different variety off of Amazon.  They, too were bigger than the Michael's boxes, but more accurately filled our 1000 round cartridge boxes.  The wooden cartridge boxes when loaded with the Amazon box arsenal packs holds about 1,040 rounds.
     With a growing interest in live firing in our unit, I've been scratching my head about how to hold the style of live rounds I make.  Today, I tried out a new box size (also from Michael's) and have been very pleased with how they fit in my Ulrich tins.  With 10 rounds and 12 caps it's a snug fit but fits the cartridge tin beautifully.  These Mark 1* boxes can be loaded, fully sealed with a wrapper and a rip string and coated in shellac for a truly period experience at the range.  This style will almost certainly not fit any import cartridge tins.  I will also say, this current style of flat based rounds I'm using doesn't fit the wooden inserts inside the tins.  If you changed glue location from the base ring to the ring tail (or choke the cartridge on the ring tail like some originals) they should fit fine.
     Comparing the fit of the 10 rounds and 12 caps in our Mark 1* model looks very similar to photos of originals.  For full construction details be sure to check out our how-to video.

     Whether reenacting or black powder forums the Sharps' Patent Breech-Loading and Self-Priming Rifle, Carbine and Shot-Gun manual of 1859 is often overlooked entirely.  What better resource can there be then the actual Sharps' Rifle Manufacturing Company? Of course, when operating modern reproductions you should follow your manufacturer's instructions for safe use and operation.
     Reprints of this can be affordably purchased on Ebay.  This manual is full of reviews from trials as well as suggestion for use from the company.  I wanted to highlight a few useful points from this manual for you.  The below text is directly from the guide.

To clean the arm, relieve the lever key from pressure, by throwing down the lever guard, and then take out the key, which is replaced, with the guard in the same position.  Remove the slide and dissolve the hard substance with water if any has collected in its cavity, taking care not to use any metallic tool in the operation, by which the slide, or gas-ring, might be injured.  The bore is easily washed, or cleansed with a wet brush, after which, wipe it dry, and oil it, and the slide with sperm oil, tallow, or other pure oil, free from salt and acids.

Author's note:  Good luck finding Sperm Oil these days.  This was a common lubricant for firearms and machinery and is found in military manuals at least into WWI.  Tallow, however, is much easier to find.  I actually have a can of McQueen's Pure Mutton Tallow, and you can find it on places like Amazon.  Just follow the link.  I haven't used tallow on my Sharps or any other firearm for that matter.

In Loading Sharps' Guns, clasp the arm in front of the lock with the left hand, throw down the lever guard with the right, and insert the cartridge with the same, pressing it forcibly into seat in the bore; then draw the lever smartly to its position, thus cutting the end of the cartridge.  Incline the arm to the right or left to throw off the superfluous powder from the groove on the top of the slide.  Let the hammer remain down while loading, and never open the breech whilst the arm is loaded, without dropping the muzzle, so as to bring the barrel to a vertical position.

The Proper charge for Army Rifles and Carbines is 55 to 60 grains of powder of 300 yards eprouvette range; and cartridges are used for convenience and celerity in firing.

Author's Note: Not everyone knows that you can use the Sharps rifle with loose ammunition.  It's mentioned in the manual:

In using loose ammunition the barrel must be held vertically, with the muzzle down, the ball is inserted and forced to its seat with a short rod, and the powder charge is poured upon it, and the slide closed.  In all firings without patches, the balls must be coated with tallow, to prevent the bore from leading. (Italics original)

Interesting note on cartridge construction:

Cartridges made of the exact length of the chamber, having their ends closed with thin muslin or gauze, are preferred by some.  Such cartridges are not cut off; the fire of the primes penetrating the cartridge through its rear end.
--END--

This is the first time I've read of gauze as a possible cartridge material.  It's probably something I'll be trying in the near future.  This goes to show, that original source material is out there.  As living historians, we don't always have to rely solely on war accounts for our information.  I hope this research is helpful to you.

This price sheet is transcribed from Kautz's The Company Clerk.

By 1st Sgt. Koepp   
    
     This project came about because we now have a company cleaning kit and as 1st Sgt, I no longer have to carry every item in bulk or tools for every repair contingency in the company.  The most practical way for me to carry all of my field gear in the past was to tote around a super-farby range box which came out after the event closed for the day.  I have been looking for some time for original examples of Sharps cartridge boxes with little to no luck except for a Richmond Arsenal example.  In all the manuals I have researched, I haven't found any references to anything other than generic dimensions for ammo boxes.  The Skipper found some info that really helped to get me started.  I found the perfect stencil font in Microsoft Word surprisingly and used Publisher to match my line spacing to original non-Sharps ammo box stenciling.  I've included the .pdf for the stencil for free download at the end of this article because at Company D, we're all about sharing resources.  If any readers have photos or references to original Sharps boxes, please leave a comment or email us.  Keep in mind, like many boxes in our hobby, this one is designed to hide farb.  I went hardcore on the case construction that people will see and sought convenience and the appearance of correctness on the inside.
    Box Construction:
     This starts out as a standard issue ammo box with finished dimensions of 7 7/8 x 12 1/4 x 16 1/4.  I used 3/4" 1x8 pine. For detailed instructions check out A.J. Hammler's Civil War Woodworking Vol. 1.  It's joined with finger joints and 1 3/4 cut box nails from Tremont Nail Company.  I used a Lee-Nielsen tongue and groove plane to join the top and bottom of the box.  When making a box, I like to leave my lids about 1/16" or less over sized on all sides for ease of access and a little more rain protection.
     I added a till or tray in the inside of the box that rests on 1/4 by 1/4 walnut rails glued in place with some TiteBond 2.  Any wood would work but I try to diversify the varieties as much as I can.  The till is designed to fit my personal kit needs and has final dimensions of 2 1/4 x 6 x 14 9/16.  The bottom is 1/8 plywood glued and tacked on.  As a woodworker, I avoid plywood in almost everything except drawer bottoms.  The stock is 3/8 pine though I needed a bit extra and I used a bit of 3/8 poplar because it was handy.  I then used some Helmsman Spar Urethane spray to make clean up and maintenance a lot easier.  The till is slightly less than half the width of the box so I can easily slide it back and forth to reach the bottom contents without removing the till.
     Finishing includes sanding up to 150 grit though 100 grit is fine since this is being painted.  I always start painting with at least one coat of Kilz primer.  Painting bare pine means you usually have to double the amount of finish coats since the wood absorbs the first two coats.  It's a little extra work, but totally worth taking the time to prime your work.  For top coat, I'm currently using Lowe's Olympic "All About Olive" flat exterior latex.  It's not as dark as I would like, but is currently the best I can find where I'm at.  Once the paint dries, I stencil the sides with basic craft store white acrylic paint and a foam brush.  Once that's done, I drill and countersink holes on the lid where the lid screws would have been if this was an actual issued cartridge box.  The last bit I add is I stencil my regiment, company, and line number identification on the box to identify it as mine.  Personal stenciling is so over looked in this hobby it's incredible.  Every manual says each company should have it's own stenciling kit for marking their equipment.  It would have been readily available and no one wants their stuff stolen.  To show the impact the screw holes and stencil make, I added it as a before and after in the slide show.  The inside Watervliet stencil came from Hammler's book.  Watervliet was actually producing Sharps rounds in 1862.
     For interior box finishing, I used Old Master's water-based spar urethane in semi-gloss applied with a foam brush.  I applied one coat, let dry, then sanded gently with some 000 steel wool before cleaning and applying a second coat.  Again, not period correct but we all know how dirty cleaning kits can get.  If you want period correct you can use shellac or just use BLO.  If you use shellac I would recommend at least 3 or 4 coats to build up a good layer of protection.  Hammler also mentions research that boxes were lined with a packing paper.  Though, through time none seem to remain with the originals
     If you've heard me rattle on about fasteners on our YouTube channel, you might notice these pictures have Phillips head screws on the mortised hinges.  They won't be there for long.  I have to drive quite a ways to my hardware store to find the slotted screws I need so they'll be on this weekend.

In Company D, we work hard towards historical authenticity but when it comes to rifle care we use all modern rifle care can give us.  If our rifles only cost $42 as they did in 1861 then it might be easier to use period tools and methods only.  Unfortunately, they cost much more than that and we care for our investments as best as possible.

Cleaning Kit suggestions and reviews:

Cleaning Rod, Jag, Brush, bore guide, and swab: My personal preference is Kleen Bore.  If you use a shotgun Kleen Bore kit, a 28 gauge brush fits nicely into the .54 cal Sharps.
Bore Butter: Seasons and lubricates all your metal.
Ballistol:  When it comes to cleaning black powder rifles this cleaning agent is nothing short of amazing.  If you buy one solvent for your kit, buy Ballistol.
Hydrogen Peroxide: This inexpensive cleaner eats black powder from the hardest to reach places.  I like to soak my block in it after a reenactment.  Caution:  Use before you season the metal.  Hydrogen peroxide will speed up rusting if left untreated.
Blue Wonder:  This is my favorite gun cleaning product.  This removes rust instantly!
Q Tips: Great for cleaning bolt holes and other hard to reach places.
Pipe Cleaners:  Another tool for getting hard to reach places.  My favorite are the ones with metal bristles.
Metal picks: Digging build up out of blocks.
Dental picks: For the hard to reach places.
Welding files : Great for getting build up off of cones. 
Remington Oil or  Mineral Oil:  Many of you use rifle socks rather than hard cases and routinely suffer from surface rust.  For long term storage or exposure to the environment spray liberally with a protective oil prior to long term storage.  Not recommended for immediate use as too much oil will cause excess fouling or dampen powder.
Anti-Seize: Keeps bolt threads from rusting solid.
Phosphor Bronze  Brush: Use carefully to remove tough build up.
Super Lube:  Not all lubricants are the same!  Petroleum based lubes will seize a block quickly.  The thinnest layer of Super Lube will provide a smooth, non-fouling lubrication to blocks.
Wheeler Gunsmith Screwdriver Set: Only about $35 this kit will prevent damage to screw heads.  Proper screwdriver size is too often overlooked.  While you may not have the money for a gunsmith kit, inexpensive multi-bit sets are also available. 
T/C Foaming Bore Cleaner: This product works quite well for a good field clean but does not work equally well on all Sharps rifles.
Can of Compressed Air:  You can find these in just about every electronics section.  I like the small ones from Office Depot the best mostly because they don't take up as much space as the big ones you often find.  These are indispensable for blasting blockages or residue out of your block.  Give it a try you'll be amazed!

Other notes:

1. Always boil your rifle barrel and block for proper seasoning and smooth action.  DO NOT USE COLD WATER.  Boiling water dries immediately and opens the pores of the metal to absorb the bore butter for a deep and long lasting seasoning.  If you can hold your barrel with a bare hand it is not hot enough!
2. Always, always, always fully breakdown your block and especially remove your clean out screw.
3. Did you know your gas check tube should slide freely?
4. Does your rifle have a worn or missing part? Replace it now!  Call or visit VTI Gun Parts.
5. Don't be afraid to do a complete breakdown and thorough cleaning at home.
6. Use an air compressor or CO2 blaster to clean oil and lubricants out of your block after cleaning.