Clean Sharps Expected. Awesome mustache optional. In Company D, we work hard towards historical authenticity but when it comes to rifle care we use all modern rifle care can give us. If our rifles only cost $42 as they did in 1861 then it might be easier to use period tools and methods only. Unfortunately, they cost much more than that and we care for our investments as best as possible.
Cleaning Kit suggestions and reviews:
Cleaning Rod, Jag, Brush, bore guide, and swab: My personal preference is Kleen Bore. If you use a shotgun Kleen Bore kit, a 28 gauge brush fits nicely into the .54 cal Sharps.
Bore Butter: Seasons and lubricates all your metal.
Ballistol: When it comes to cleaning black powder rifles this cleaning agent is nothing short of amazing. If you buy one solvent for your kit, buy Ballistol.
Hydrogen Peroxide: This inexpensive cleaner eats black powder from the hardest to reach places. I like to soak my block in it after a reenactment. Caution: Use before you season the metal. Hydrogen peroxide will speed up rusting if left untreated.
Blue Wonder: This is my favorite gun cleaning product. This removes rust instantly!
Q Tips: Great for cleaning bolt holes and other hard to reach places.
Pipe Cleaners: Another tool for getting hard to reach places. My favorite are the ones with metal bristles.
Metal picks: Digging build up out of blocks.
Dental picks: For the hard to reach places.
Welding files : Great for getting build up off of cones.
Remington Oil or Mineral Oil: Many of you use rifle socks rather than hard cases and routinely suffer from surface rust. For long term storage or exposure to the environment spray liberally with a protective oil prior to long term storage. Not recommended for immediate use as too much oil will cause excess fouling or dampen powder.
Anti-Seize: Keeps bolt threads from rusting solid.
Phosphor Bronze Brush: Use carefully to remove tough build up.
Super Lube: Not all lubricants are the same! Petroleum based lubes will seize a block quickly. The thinnest layer of Super Lube will provide a smooth, non-fouling lubrication to blocks.
Wheeler Gunsmith Screwdriver Set: Only about $35 this kit will prevent damage to screw heads. Proper screwdriver size is too often overlooked. While you may not have the money for a gunsmith kit, inexpensive multi-bit sets are also available.
T/C Foaming Bore Cleaner: This product works quite well for a good field clean but does not work equally well on all Sharps rifles.
Can of Compressed Air: You can find these in just about every electronics section. I like the small ones from Office Depot the best mostly because they don't take up as much space as the big ones you often find. These are indispensable for blasting blockages or residue out of your block. Give it a try you'll be amazed!
Other notes:
Cleaning Kit suggestions and reviews:
Cleaning Rod, Jag, Brush, bore guide, and swab: My personal preference is Kleen Bore. If you use a shotgun Kleen Bore kit, a 28 gauge brush fits nicely into the .54 cal Sharps.
Bore Butter: Seasons and lubricates all your metal.
Ballistol: When it comes to cleaning black powder rifles this cleaning agent is nothing short of amazing. If you buy one solvent for your kit, buy Ballistol.
Hydrogen Peroxide: This inexpensive cleaner eats black powder from the hardest to reach places. I like to soak my block in it after a reenactment. Caution: Use before you season the metal. Hydrogen peroxide will speed up rusting if left untreated.
Blue Wonder: This is my favorite gun cleaning product. This removes rust instantly!
Q Tips: Great for cleaning bolt holes and other hard to reach places.
Pipe Cleaners: Another tool for getting hard to reach places. My favorite are the ones with metal bristles.
Metal picks: Digging build up out of blocks.
Dental picks: For the hard to reach places.
Welding files : Great for getting build up off of cones.
Remington Oil or Mineral Oil: Many of you use rifle socks rather than hard cases and routinely suffer from surface rust. For long term storage or exposure to the environment spray liberally with a protective oil prior to long term storage. Not recommended for immediate use as too much oil will cause excess fouling or dampen powder.
Anti-Seize: Keeps bolt threads from rusting solid.
Phosphor Bronze Brush: Use carefully to remove tough build up.
Super Lube: Not all lubricants are the same! Petroleum based lubes will seize a block quickly. The thinnest layer of Super Lube will provide a smooth, non-fouling lubrication to blocks.
Wheeler Gunsmith Screwdriver Set: Only about $35 this kit will prevent damage to screw heads. Proper screwdriver size is too often overlooked. While you may not have the money for a gunsmith kit, inexpensive multi-bit sets are also available.
T/C Foaming Bore Cleaner: This product works quite well for a good field clean but does not work equally well on all Sharps rifles.
Can of Compressed Air: You can find these in just about every electronics section. I like the small ones from Office Depot the best mostly because they don't take up as much space as the big ones you often find. These are indispensable for blasting blockages or residue out of your block. Give it a try you'll be amazed!
Other notes:
- Always boil your rifle barrel and block for proper seasoning and smooth action. DO NOT USE COLD WATER. Boiling water dries immediately and opens the pores of the metal to absorb the bore butter for a deep and long lasting seasoning. If you can hold your barrel with a bare hand it is not hot enough!
- Always, always, always fully breakdown your block and especially remove your clean out screw.
- Did you know your gas check tube should slide freely?
- Does your rifle have a worn or missing part? Replace it now! Call or visit VTI Gun Parts.
- Don't be afraid to do a complete breakdown and thorough cleaning at home.
- Use an air compressor or CO2 blaster to clean oil and lubricants out of your block after cleaning.
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